Right Hat, Wrong Team

Friends in France often ask me what I miss most about Canada.  Friends and family, wide open spaces, a house with a garden, having my very own car and the ease of communicating in english are my usual responses.  Truth be told though the one thing that makes me almost cry is that my beloved Canucks are in the Stanley Cup final and I have tickets to every game but alas I am in southern France, waking up at 3 in the morning to watch my team battle for the cup instead of being at Roger's Arena.  I readily admit that my passion for the Canucks has reached the point of being more than a little pathetic.  For example, when we were in London, I watched a game at two in the morning sitting on the bathroom floor of our hotel room so as to not wake the rest of the family.  Another game found me in Antibes on the French Riviera for game 7 of the first round versus the Chicago Blackhawks and our apartment was without internet.  I woke up at 4 and even though I had no recourse for finding out the score, I lay in bed contemplating various scenarios.  At 9am, I wandered aimlessly around Antibes looking for my fix.  When I finally found an internet cafe, I nervously typed in tsn.ca and breathed a sigh of relief as I read the headline "Canucks exorcise their Demons".

Since the first round victory I have been able to sleep better as I have decided that watching the games on tape delay is a much healthier option.  Certainly the chance of me running into someone on the street and having them ruin the score for me is nil.

On Saturday I found an outlet for my pent up need to stand up and cheer.  Virginia, two friends and I went to Marseille to watch the semi-final rugby match at the Stade Velodrome.  This is the same stadium that the Marseille Football Club plays in.  It was easy for me to choose who to cheer for as the Montpellier Rugby Club has the same colours as my beloved Canucks so onto the bandwagon I climbed.  The choice was also made easier as of the 57,000 people in attendance around 56 thousand were supporting Montpellier.

The atmosphere inside the stadium was electric.  One thing they definitely do better in Europe than in North America is supporting their club as all the singing and flag waving provided an amazing atmosphere.

For me the game was extremely enjoyable.  I used to coach rugby and though there are some nuances that I don't understand, it is a sport that I appreciate.  Montpellier was up 23-6 in the second half before they had a collapse of collasal proportions to fall behind 25-23 (think Canucks up 3-0 on Chicago before Chicago won three straight games) but they came through in the final minute with a penalty kick to win the game 26-25.

For me it was a cathartic experience to be able to cheer on a team.  Being emotionally invested in a sporting event is certainly an experience that I have sorely missed.  I enjoyed my ride on the Montpellier bandwagon but here I am showing my true allegiance.  This is the first time in their 114 year history that Montpellier has reached the league final so if that isn't a good sign for the Canucks to win their first Stanley Cup I don't know what would be.

When we picked up the girls from the babysitters the husband was just sitting down with a friend to watch Barcelona versus Manchester United in the Club Champions League Final.  I asked him who he was cheering for and he replied that he was a big fan of Manchester United.  I decided that if he can be happy cheering on Man United from southern France, I can certainly be happy cheering on my boys in blue from afar.  GO CANUCKS GO!

Cuisses de grenouille

Back in September we were kindly invited for an "apératif dînatoire" (basically a drink and finger-food) at a couple's house that have a son in Grace's class.  That evening the subject of "frogs' legs" came up, to which the classmate of Grace started oohing and aahing and licking his lips, much to the astonishment  of both girls.  I remember Lily's puzzled face and her asking, "What do you do, just grab one and start chewing?"  Although far from being a frog-eatin'-expert, I assured her that before showing up on the table, they were no longer hopping and had been cooked.

Anyways, our hosts immediately pledged to treat us to some "cuisses de grenouille".  We had to wait 8 months until frog season in spring, but they certainly followed through on their promise

We walked 2 minutes to the "Lyonnais Bistro" for another gastronomic adventure.  We were greeted at the front door by the extremely friendly chef who shouted out, "Where are the Canadians that have come to eat frog legs?" and proudly brought out this platter to show us.  I have to admit, my tastes buds didn't start watering at the sight.

I was expecting a plate of frog thighs on a plate to share before our meals, but not so.  We each got a large bowl all to ourselves chocker-block full of frogs' legs, butter and garlic.  Our friend also asked for some lemon to squeeze on top; a must in his estimate.  The chef very reluctantly obliged.  

Usually Grace is our "petite gourmande", but in this case it  was Grace that was a little unsure (until it came time to soak the bread in the sauce left at the bottom and sample from the cheese plate!) and Lily who couldn't get enough!  Lily told me that night that she wanted to eat frogs' legs everyday and sure enough she was asking for them the next day!  

Here's Barry's take on the meal:

I found the experience a bit to be like eating crab.  A lot of work for a little reward.  It was definitely not my favourite meal as I struggled a little with the tibia. There was very little meat on the lower portion of the leg and my friend instructed me on the proper technique which involved sucking the leg.  Fine enough instructions indeed but I couldn't get past the little frog foot that was still attached to the end of the leg.  Grace really revelled in playing with the webbed feet and displaying them to everyone.  This just turned my stomach a little more.  Thankfully, Lily happily finished my remaining two legs.  The entre was preceded by an amazing starter, followed by a wonderful raspberry tart with a fabulous cheese plate to end, so overall the meal was one of the most enjoyable ones that we have had in France.   

Antibes

Here are some more photos and a few videos from our time in Antibes.  It wasn't hard to figure out why the area is such a popular draw for tourists.  In fact, we heard more Italian and English than we did French!  We visited the Picasso Museum in Antibes and the Chagall Museum in Nice, and managed to stumble across a children's festival in Nice much to the girls' delight.   Despite rain on the first day, the weather was super and we had a number of leisurely afternoons on the beach.  Grace kept busy digging, building and watering each beach trip.  Lily, on the otherhand, decided that after the first day she had had enough of the feel of sand between her toes and preferred to relax on a towel while soaking her feet or skimming through a book.

At one of the beaches in Antibes with its old walled city in the background.

On the outdoor patio at the Picasso museum.  The girls were surprised that one of his framed paintings on display was done with crayon!  

In one of the city squares in Nice.

Saumon au Champagne

We have just returned from a wonderful week vacation in Antibes which is located across the bay from Nice.  It was a spectacular week on the French Riviera.  For me, one of the best parts of the holiday was renting an apartment in the centre of all the action.  The apartment also had a well-appointed kitchen which made cooking a pleasure.  In addition to the kitchen, I found a cookbook entitled "The French Market" and using its guidance and fresh ingredients we enjoyed some great meals.  Hopefully you won't mind another culinary themed blog, as for me this is really becoming one of the main aspects of our experience in France.

Antibes has a wonderful covered market that was a short 5 minute walk from our apartment.  Our first visit to the market was Easter Sunday and it was extremely crowded.  I can't imagine how crowded it must be in the summer as on Sunday the 50 metre walk through the market took around 20 minutes.  Antibes provençal market is a little more upscale than what we are used to and I think that the best example of that were the first cherries of the season.  150 euros per kilo.  Yes thats right 150! Roughly 100 canadian dollars per pound.  I should have asked the proprietor where the cherries originated from, but I was certain that he had been asked the question many times that day from disbelieving shoppers.  Not every stall was as expensive and I managed to find all the ingredients for my favourite recipe from the week:  Saumon au Champagne.

One story that I have recounted many times this year is the presence of the mythical "saumon sauvage" off the shores of British Columbia.  Any of our french friends that dabble in serious cooking are always extremely interested to hear my tales of landing wild salmon off the coasts of Haida Gwaii ( the Queen Charlotte Islands).  As with all fish tales, each time the fish become bigger (the conversion from pounds to kilograms is just so difficult) and the fights lasts longer.  I was surprised to find out that almost all of the fish one sees in the south of France are farmed fish as the Mediterranean has essentially been fished out.

But I do digress, back to Saumon au Champagne.  I have a favourite salmon recipe that involves corn flakes, butter, honey and Dijon mustard but it was great to add a second recipe to my repetoire.

Start by sauteing two shallots in butter until they are soft and then place the salmon filets (not too thick) on the shallots.  Pour 400 ml of champagne into the frying pan, cover and cook for eight minutes.  For the champagne I went to a local wine merchant and at first I balked at the 16 euro price for a 33cl bottle (I thought I would throw in another cultural difference between Canada and France as raise your hand if you know or use the ever useful cl).  I was assured by the owner that a sparkling white would work just as well.

Remove the salmon after the 8 minutes and reduce the remaining sauce in half.  Next add 100 ml of cream (I used a 15% milk fat cream, shame on me) and continue cooking the sauce until it has a bit of a thicker consistency (5 minutes seemed to do the trick).  Cut in a bunch of dill and pour over the salmon serving immediately.  Non-drinkers and New Year's eve revelers will be happy to know that the recipe works great with flat champagne/sparkling wine as I made the salmon a second time three days later with the remnants of our first bottle of wine.  The girls both really enjoyed the meal.

Lapin Chasseur (Hunter's Rabbit)

The first and last time I ate rabbit, I was eight years old and living in Kenya.  One memory that is seared into my mind from my childhood is walking around our house and seeing our cook Jimmy in the middle of using a dull kitchen knife on one of the rabbits I considered to be a pet.  I immediately bolted in the opposite direction trying to outrun the scene I had just witnessed.  That evening Jimmy served up Rabbit Stew and I did try one bite but no more.

Fast forward 35 years and I decided that serving rabbit on Good Friday was the perfect meal to begin our Easter weekend.  With my trusty shopping companions in tow we headed off to Les Halles for our ingredients.

Grace's expression pretty much sums up the anticipation and excitement she had as her father set out on another culinary adventure.  She was quite certain that it was not going to taste like chicken.  Lily on the other hand was not quite sure what she was in for and is having fun showing off a necklace recently purchased in London.  With four nice sized rabbit thighs in our shopping cart we headed to the legume and fruit stand to round out our meal.  It is currently asparagus season in Provence and I have never seen so many different varieties to choose from.  In Canada I am lucky if I can find a locally grown green asparagus in spring at the grocery store .

Grace and Lily happily displaying the chocolate eggs the owner of the store gave them.  I must say that these two little cuties do get quite a few freebies.

The previously mentioned asparagus options, all with their own specific flavour and utilization.  I usually opt for the familiar green variety.

We headed home and began the process of putting together our meal.

All of the necessary ingredients for a wonderful french meal!

As I looked at the recipe, I experienced a surge of confidence and decided to invite a french friend over to join us.  Always the risk taker!

I combined the rabbit with shallots, garlic and butter and ensured that the pieces were browned evenly.  I then slowly poured in some cognac into the saucepan and to Grace's horror I brought out a match to ignite the cognac.  Having never witnessed her father flambé supper before, Grace was sure that I was being "Danger Boy".  I reassured her that I knew what I was doing (bit of a lie there) and poof up went the flames.

I added enough white wine (keeping a fair bit for supper - a french obligation) and chicken stock to cover the rabbit.  Following 30 minutes of simmering I added some tasty brown mushrooms and two tomatoes chopped with skin and seeds removed.  The rabbit pieces were then removed and I added fresh taragon and fresh chives along with the ever-important 2 tablespoons of butter.  I cooked the sauce for 5 minutes or so and presto poured it over the rabbit and awaited the response from the assembled food critics (Grace, Lily, Ginger and our french guest).  The result: a resounding success!  Lily asked to have rabbit everyday and Grace went back for seconds.  Those were the two that mattered the most but our dinner guest was also quite impressed.  I found the rabbit to be surprisingly mild and the sauce was impeccable. 

I think I may have difficulties finding rabbit in Mission (though I am told I can head over to the University of Victoria campus and have my choice of free range rabbits) but my cookbook assures me that I can use chicken as well though Hunter's Chicken doesn't quite have the same ring.

If anyone is interested in the recipe:  page 179, The Provençal Cookbook.